How to Fix a Screw That Keeps Spinning & Remove Stripped Screws

If a screw keeps spinning without tightening, the hole is stripped. The easiest DIY fix is to remove the screw, fill the hole with wood glue, and pack it tightly with wooden toothpicks. Snap the toothpicks flush with the surface, let the glue dry, and drive the screw back in. If the head of the screw is stripped and your screwdriver slips, try placing a wide rubber band over the screw head before turning it to add grip, or use a screw extractor bit.

Here is the complete guide to fixing spinning screws and extracting damaged ones, ranked by ease and material.

Part 1: How to Fix a Screw That Keeps Spinning (Stripped Hole)

How to Fix a Screw That Keeps Spinning

A screw that just keeps spinning without tightening is stuck in a stripped screw hole. This happens when the threads inside the wood or material have worn away, leaving the screw nothing to grip.

4 Proven Ways to Fix a Stripped Screw Hole

MethodBest ForWhat You Need
The Toothpick TrickWood furniture, door hinges, guitar strapsWooden toothpicks, wood glue
Larger ScrewHidden areas, structural woodA longer or thicker screw
Wall AnchorsDrywall, loose masonry, soft woodPlastic wall anchor, hammer
Wood Epoxy / FillerMetal, large wood holes, MDFTwo-part filler, drill

The Best Fix: The Toothpick Method

If you are fixing a door hinge, cabinet hardware, or any wooden fixture, this carpenter’s trick is the gold standard for restoring a stripped hole.

  1. Remove the spinning screw: If the screw won’t back out, wedge a flathead screwdriver or putty knife under the screw head to apply gentle upward pressure while you reverse the drill.
  2. Fill the hole with glue: Squeeze a few drops of standard wood glue (or Elmer’s All-Purpose glue) directly into the stripped hole.
  3. Pack the hole with toothpicks: Dip plain wooden toothpicks (or matches with the heads cut off, or wooden skewers) into the glue, and pack them tightly into the hole until no more will fit.
  4. Snap off the excess: Wait a few minutes for the glue to become tacky, then snap or cut the toothpicks perfectly flush with the surface of the wood.
  5. Drive the screw: Wait 1 to 3 hours for the glue to dry fully. Once it hardens, drive your original screw straight into the center of the packed toothpicks. The screw will carve new threads into the solid wood.

Alternative Solutions for Stripped Holes

  • Size Up Your Screw: If the appearance of the screw head doesn’t matter, simply replacing the original screw with one that is wider (larger gauge) or longer is the absolute fastest fix. The new screw will cut deeper into the surrounding undamaged material.
  • Use a Plastic Wall Anchor: For a very quick, cheap fix, insert a plastic drywall anchor into the stripped hole. Tap it flush with a hammer, and then drive your screw into the anchor. The plastic anchor expands and grips the sides of the hole tightly.
  • Epoxy or Auto Body Filler: If the hole is completely blown out or you’re working with metal, mix a two-part auto body filler (like Bondo) or wood epoxy and pack it into the hole. Coat your screw lightly in WD-40 (to act as a release agent) and press it into the wet filler. Wait 5 minutes for it to partially cure, back the screw out, and let the filler harden overnight.

Part 2: How to Remove a Screw with a Stripped Head

How to Remove a Screw with a Stripped Head

When a screw head strips (or “cams out”), the screwdriver loses its grip and just grinds against the metal, hollowing out the cross. The most important rule: stop drilling immediately. Every time the bit slips, you destroy more of the metal you need to grip.

Quick DIY Fixes

  • The Rubber Band Trick (Easiest): Place a wide, flat rubber band directly over the stripped screw head. Insert your screwdriver (or drill bit) into the screw head, pushing the rubber band down into the hole. Apply heavy downward pressure and turn slowly. The rubber fills the gaps and grips the damaged metal.
  • Change Your Bit: If the Phillips cross is stripped, a flathead screwdriver might still work. Find a flathead bit that fits tightly across the widest remaining part of the hole.
  • Use Locking Pliers: If the screw head is sticking out even a millimeter above the surface of the wood or metal, clamp a pair of locking pliers (like Vise-Grips) horizontally onto the outside edge of the screw head. Clamp them tightly and twist the screw out manually.
  • Cut a New Slot: If you have access to a rotary tool (like a Dremel) with a metal cutting wheel, carefully cut a straight, deep notch directly across the top of the stripped screw head. Use a large flathead screwdriver to back it out.

The Pro Method: Use a Screw Extractor

If the screw is completely flush and the head is totally hollowed out into a smooth bowl, your best option is a screw extractor kit. These are specialized, double-sided drill bits made of hardened steel featuring reverse threads.

  1. Burnish the hole: Insert the extractor bit into your drill with the burnishing end (the smooth, slightly tapered drill bit side) facing out. Put your drill in reverse. Drill directly into the center of the damaged screw head to create a smooth, clean, cone-shaped hole.
  2. Flip the bit: Take the bit out of your drill and flip it around so the extractor end (the side with the aggressive, reverse-threaded spirals) is facing out.
  3. Extract the screw: Keep your drill in reverse. Place the extractor end firmly into the clean hole you just drilled. As you slowly apply power, the reverse threads will bite backward into the metal, lock into place, and seamlessly unscrew the stuck fastener.

Emma Parker

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